После замены термопасты не загружается windows

Glad you got it going … after reading the 1st post … was prepared to included «remove and reseat all components» but you solved it. We have been building / consulting / coaching PC builds for almost 30 years … our goal is never to have a repeat «customer». In most instances we don’t actually build them … we coach, we provide the tools, resources, workbench etc . … they make final component selections, they do actual assembly (or we show how where they intimidated), goal being that they leave with the knowledge to upgrade that box or build next one. We still get calls for advice on troubleshooting, component selection, dead systems and many still return to get help with a problem, use the workbench, tools etc and just have the «group nerd» experience. So in that vein …. Going forward, few things to keep in mind while lowering the anxiety level.

1. When putting a new box into service, I recommend establishing baselines by running CPU, memory and GPU bench tests …, recording temps and voltages of all components. Periodically run the same tests and compare against your baseline. If you see a jump anywhere or decreased performance, that should give you an idea where to look.

2. It’s somewhat rare, but yes I have seen instances where the TIM needs to be replaced. Typical reasons / causes could include:

a) Initial poor mount
b) User disturbed the cooler when adding / removing components and it got nudged a bit, breaking bond
c) Vibration during transport shifted cooler position

Of course it really doesn’t matter what the cause is, but if you retest the system, and it’s showing a significant increase in temps or performace is impacted, most will want to address it …. some don’t case. Once had a user who wanted an SLI build and one of the cards arrived DOA … suggested he leave it on our workbench till the card arrived but he was anxious to take it home and play. I found out cupla years later that he never did get around to returning the card.

3. My youngest son had a 2600k for almost 10 years …. It was OC’d to 4.8 Ghz and it still hold today … box is sitting in corner as a guest PC. When baseline check was made 6 months later, CPU temps had dropped slightly … not unusual … and when he did his new build, final baselines check was up 0.2 — 0.4 per core. When my second oldest went away to college, his PC was packed in original box, on a pillow in the back seat of his car wearing a seat belt …. when he came back fo the summer, as often as not , it was on the roof rack of his off road jeep which has a modified (read stiff) suspension package and 35″ tires. At some point he noticed higher (almost 4C) than normal temps … a remount brought it back to normal …. was a roof rack transport to blame ? … knowing what caused it doesn’t change anything, but the remount did put things back the way they were. Also have had instances where a new build just had significantly higher temps than was observed in TPU testing … PC componentry is mass produced and not every one comes out perfect. So while it must be recognized that this happens, it’s also a rare occurrence.

4. You should always practice safe assembly / disassembly … that means exercising safe practices by always grounding yourself before touching any component. For the person who does a build every couple of years, as long as they careful, no need to invest in special items. I started with just:

a) Make sure PSU gets a good ground to case … at least one screw should make «bare metal contact» with case / PSU.
b) Plus PSU into 3 prong outlet to establish connection to «ground», leave PSU off and 24 pin cable unconnected.
c) I started 1st build w/ a wrist strap but found it got in the way so immediately abandoned; just make sure that you touch the case often and certainly before touching any component.

As builds got frequent, we moved to a «Mod Mat» …. Outlet to PSU, PSU to Case, Case to Mat, mat to ankle strap and we can work faster without thinking about anything

Yes, it’s overkill perhaps but, especially when working with components somebody else paid for, better safe than sorry

5. Cotton sheds fibers, don’t want to leave those behind. Eye glass cleaning cloths are ideal for this purpose and readily available in packets of 6-12 inexpensively. We are still using Indigo Extreme Cleaner, at least until the supply runs out or we find an alternative. Isoprophly alcohol is a very good substitue but the higher purity can be hard to find …especially now with the pandemic. When looking at the purity %, don’t think about the % alcohol difference between various concentrations … think more about the rest … 70% has 3 times the impurities than 90% …. 90 % has 10 times the impurities than 99%. And pricing is often weird …. at Walmart:

16 oz 99% = $9.37
16 oz 70% = $14.88

There was also a 2 bottles of 70% for $3.92 but wasn’t in stock

In a recent site visit I also saw 99% in 2.3 oz spray bottles … Id like to try those…. comes in small bottles so would fit nicely in my PC toolbox

6. As for the paste on the CPU, as long as it didn’t contact the electrical contact points, there’s no danger…. however, there’s no reason you shouldn’t have been able to remove. Again Walmart carries foam swabs or you can order easily on line. Whether or not the TIM is dangerpus depends on what paste you used:

a) «Liquid metal» type TIMs tell you the risk in their name . not recommended to be used other than by experience system builders.
b) While not conductive, some TIMs are capacitive (From AS5 site):

«Arctic Silver 5 was formulated to conduct heat, not electricity. (While much safer than electrically conductive silver and copper greases, Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. While it is not electrically conductive, the compound is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths.) «

There’s no «one size fits all» solution either. many will argue that any choice is good because 1-2c doesn’t matter. Well … most 240 mm CLC type AIOs won’t beat a $50 air cooler and yet flks are oft paying 3 times as much to get one… even the few that can, none by more than 2C … so if 1-2C «don’t matter, why purchase a $90 air cooler or $150 CLC typ AIO ? Secondly, if they cost the same, why not grab the best option available ?

But there are other considerations … like when water cooling, when mounting a CPU, you have one surface to add TIM to …. with a GPU, it can be 25 (GPU, 8 memory modules, 16 VRMs). See attached water block instructions. In my experience, the workability of some compounds diminishes over time. IC Diamond and Shin Etsu G751 for example are not well suited for MoBo Monoblocks and GFX cards (where application on multiple surfaces is warranted) because their workability diminishes with exposure to cool temps (IC recommends warming the tube in warm water before TIM application) and air. So where there are large or multiple surfaces needing application, TIMs providing extended workability should be considered.

Glad you got it going … after reading the 1st post … was prepared to included «remove and reseat all components» but you solved it. We have been building / consulting / coaching PC builds for almost 30 years … our goal is never to have a repeat «customer». In most instances we don’t actually build them … we coach, we provide the tools, resources, workbench etc . … they make final component selections, they do actual assembly (or we show how where they intimidated), goal being that they leave with the knowledge to upgrade that box or build next one. We still get calls for advice on troubleshooting, component selection, dead systems and many still return to get help with a problem, use the workbench, tools etc and just have the «group nerd» experience. So in that vein …. Going forward, few things to keep in mind while lowering the anxiety level.

1. When putting a new box into service, I recommend establishing baselines by running CPU, memory and GPU bench tests …, recording temps and voltages of all components. Periodically run the same tests and compare against your baseline. If you see a jump anywhere or decreased performance, that should give you an idea where to look.

2. It’s somewhat rare, but yes I have seen instances where the TIM needs to be replaced. Typical reasons / causes could include:

a) Initial poor mount
b) User disturbed the cooler when adding / removing components and it got nudged a bit, breaking bond
c) Vibration during transport shifted cooler position

Of course it really doesn’t matter what the cause is, but if you retest the system, and it’s showing a significant increase in temps or performace is impacted, most will want to address it …. some don’t case. Once had a user who wanted an SLI build and one of the cards arrived DOA … suggested he leave it on our workbench till the card arrived but he was anxious to take it home and play. I found out cupla years later that he never did get around to returning the card.

3. My youngest son had a 2600k for almost 10 years …. It was OC’d to 4.8 Ghz and it still hold today … box is sitting in corner as a guest PC. When baseline check was made 6 months later, CPU temps had dropped slightly … not unusual … and when he did his new build, final baselines check was up 0.2 — 0.4 per core. When my second oldest went away to college, his PC was packed in original box, on a pillow in the back seat of his car wearing a seat belt …. when he came back fo the summer, as often as not , it was on the roof rack of his off road jeep which has a modified (read stiff) suspension package and 35″ tires. At some point he noticed higher (almost 4C) than normal temps … a remount brought it back to normal …. was a roof rack transport to blame ? … knowing what caused it doesn’t change anything, but the remount did put things back the way they were. Also have had instances where a new build just had significantly higher temps than was observed in TPU testing … PC componentry is mass produced and not every one comes out perfect. So while it must be recognized that this happens, it’s also a rare occurrence.

4. You should always practice safe assembly / disassembly … that means exercising safe practices by always grounding yourself before touching any component. For the person who does a build every couple of years, as long as they careful, no need to invest in special items. I started with just:

a) Make sure PSU gets a good ground to case … at least one screw should make «bare metal contact» with case / PSU.
b) Plus PSU into 3 prong outlet to establish connection to «ground», leave PSU off and 24 pin cable unconnected.
c) I started 1st build w/ a wrist strap but found it got in the way so immediately abandoned; just make sure that you touch the case often and certainly before touching any component.

As builds got frequent, we moved to a «Mod Mat» …. Outlet to PSU, PSU to Case, Case to Mat, mat to ankle strap and we can work faster without thinking about anything

Yes, it’s overkill perhaps but, especially when working with components somebody else paid for, better safe than sorry

5. Cotton sheds fibers, don’t want to leave those behind. Eye glass cleaning cloths are ideal for this purpose and readily available in packets of 6-12 inexpensively. We are still using Indigo Extreme Cleaner, at least until the supply runs out or we find an alternative. Isoprophly alcohol is a very good substitue but the higher purity can be hard to find …especially now with the pandemic. When looking at the purity %, don’t think about the % alcohol difference between various concentrations … think more about the rest … 70% has 3 times the impurities than 90% …. 90 % has 10 times the impurities than 99%. And pricing is often weird …. at Walmart:

16 oz 99% = $9.37
16 oz 70% = $14.88

There was also a 2 bottles of 70% for $3.92 but wasn’t in stock

In a recent site visit I also saw 99% in 2.3 oz spray bottles … Id like to try those…. comes in small bottles so would fit nicely in my PC toolbox

6. As for the paste on the CPU, as long as it didn’t contact the electrical contact points, there’s no danger…. however, there’s no reason you shouldn’t have been able to remove. Again Walmart carries foam swabs or you can order easily on line. Whether or not the TIM is dangerpus depends on what paste you used:

a) «Liquid metal» type TIMs tell you the risk in their name . not recommended to be used other than by experience system builders.
b) While not conductive, some TIMs are capacitive (From AS5 site):

«Arctic Silver 5 was formulated to conduct heat, not electricity. (While much safer than electrically conductive silver and copper greases, Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. While it is not electrically conductive, the compound is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths.) «

There’s no «one size fits all» solution either. many will argue that any choice is good because 1-2c doesn’t matter. Well … most 240 mm CLC type AIOs won’t beat a $50 air cooler and yet flks are oft paying 3 times as much to get one… even the few that can, none by more than 2C … so if 1-2C «don’t matter, why purchase a $90 air cooler or $150 CLC typ AIO ? Secondly, if they cost the same, why not grab the best option available ?

But there are other considerations … like when water cooling, when mounting a CPU, you have one surface to add TIM to …. with a GPU, it can be 25 (GPU, 8 memory modules, 16 VRMs). See attached water block instructions. In my experience, the workability of some compounds diminishes over time. IC Diamond and Shin Etsu G751 for example are not well suited for MoBo Monoblocks and GFX cards (where application on multiple surfaces is warranted) because their workability diminishes with exposure to cool temps (IC recommends warming the tube in warm water before TIM application) and air. So where there are large or multiple surfaces needing application, TIMs providing extended workability should be considered.